Ocean waves generated by distant storms that travel hundreds or thousands of miles before reaching the coast. Swell creates the waves that surfers ride.
Swell is different from wind chop. While chop is created by local wind on the water surface, swell is generated by storms far out at sea. These waves organize into sets as they travel, arriving at coastlines as clean, evenly spaced lines of energy.
Swell is measured by height (in feet or meters), period (seconds between waves), and direction (where it comes from). Period is crucial — a 6-foot swell with an 8-second period is much weaker than a 6-foot swell with a 16-second period. Long-period swell carries more energy and produces bigger, more powerful waves when it hits the coast.
Swell direction determines which beaches and reefs will receive the waves — a south swell won't produce waves at a north-facing beach.
Example usage
"Big SW swell hitting tomorrow — 10 feet at 15 seconds. The point breaks are going to be firing."
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